By the late 16th century, carpet production had firmly established itself in Europe, having made its journey from Central Asia. However, the rugs produced during this period were largely exclusive to the wealthy elite. Oriental designs heavily influenced many patterns, while the demand for Renaissance-inspired textiles was on the rise. Over the next few centuries, significant transformations occurred in the industry, from the traditional workshops of Persia to the modern factories in Britain and the United States.
Court-Influenced Carpets in Persia and the Mughal Empire
In the 17th century, the rise of the Safavid Dynasty in Persia marked a flourishing era of artistic and cultural advancements. The Safavids, known for their patronage of the arts, played a pivotal role in fostering painting, architecture, and artisanal crafts, including carpet production.
Carpets from this era were characterized by intricate designs and flowing, curvilinear patterns, often depicting natural or religious themes. Many were made on a grand scale, designed to grace the floors of royal palaces or the homes of courtiers. This period, often referred to as the “Golden Age of Persian Weaving,” saw Persian rugs gain international acclaim, with gifts of these exquisite pieces to foreign dignitaries further spreading their popularity.
At the same time, the Mughal Empire in India was developing a distinct carpet style, blending Persian motifs with Indian artistry. Many of the carpets produced in the 16th and 17th centuries featured floral and animal designs. While larger carpets adorned the imperial courts, smaller ones served as prayer rugs.
Mughal Emperor Akbar was a significant supporter of the textile industry, establishing karkhanas (workshops) throughout the empire. He also emphasized training local artisans, not just for economic reasons but as a way of upholding the artistic values of Islamic society.
Innovations of the Industrial Revolution
Carpet manufacturing in England began in the mid-17th century. The Industrial Revolution then rapidly transformed this cottage industry into a commercial enterprise. With advancements in dyeing, weaving techniques, and the availability of synthetic materials, the industry evolved into the diverse carpet market we know today.
One of the most famous early English carpets is the Axminster, first produced in Devon by Thomas Whitty. Inspired by a Turkish rug he saw at a London market, Whitty returned to Axminster to replicate the quality and craftsmanship. Hand-knotted and often featuring floral or Oriental-inspired motifs, Axminster rugs gained widespread popularity in the 18th century.
However, the most significant shift in the carpet industry occurred across the Atlantic in the United States. In 1791, William Sprague opened a carpet factory in Philadelphia. A few decades later, Erastus Bigelow, a Massachusetts inventor, designed a power loom that revolutionized carpet production. The power loom dramatically increased production speed, making carpets more affordable.
Simultaneously, the growing middle class in both Europe and the United States fueled a demand for carpets. In response, innovations continued to emerge, including the development of the “Gripper” Axminster loom in 1890, which further reduced production costs and made carpets more accessible to the general public.
The Enduring Legacy of 19th-Century Persian Masters
The 19th century also saw remarkable developments in Persian carpet design, with master weavers like Mohtasham Kashan and Hadji Jalili reshaping the industry. Based in Kashan, a city known as a retreat for the wealthy, Mohtasham Kashan perfected his craft with the patronage of affluent families.
His carpets were renowned for their intricate, curvilinear patterns and botanical motifs, often inspired by the royal gardens of Kashan. These pieces were distinguished by tightly spun cotton warps, indigo-dyed double wefts, and remarkable attention to detail. Despite the challenges of working with lanolin-rich wool, Mohtasham Kashan’s designs were complex and elegantly executed.
Meanwhile, in Tabriz, Hadji Jalili made a lasting impact with his innovative designs. A master influenced by European Romantic art and Persian carpets from the “Golden Age,” Jalili’s work reflected a blend of Sufi philosophy and traditional Persian artistry.
Known for using only the finest materials, Jalili’s workshop employed some of Persia’s best weavers and dyers. His carpets stood out for their brilliant floral patterns and grand medallions, executed with densely woven details. Unlike earlier Persian rugs that favored deep reds and blues, Jalili’s creations were marked by restrained color palettes, with tones of sand, terracotta, and rust.
A Transformed Industry
By the late 19th century, the carpet industry had undergone a profound transformation. Power looms allowed for faster and more affordable production, making carpets accessible not only to royalty but also to the middle class. While the legacy of the early master weavers remained influential, their designs were adapted to suit the tastes of a broader, global market.